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Seasonal

Sweetcorn Beyond the Cob

Char it, cream it, cut it into everything while it's good.

Corn cobs with charred kernels grilling on a barbecue grate
Char it, cream it, cut it into everything while it's good.

The window is short. Here's how to make the most of it.

Make the season count

Fresh sweetcorn is one of those ingredients that needs almost no help — which is exactly why it's so easy to underuse it. You boil it, butter it, eat it over the sink, and then the season's gone. There's nothing wrong with that. But while the cobs are sweet and the kernels are milky, it's worth pushing a little further.

The first move is charring. Strip the kernels from a raw cob — stand it upright in a wide bowl and run your knife down the sides — then tip them into a dry, screaming-hot cast-iron pan. Don't stir. Let them blister and catch for two or three minutes until some are properly blackened at the edges. That caramelised bitterness against the sweetness is a different thing entirely from anything you'd get by boiling. Toss charred corn through a grain salad, pile it onto tacos, or fold it into a quick market minestrone in the last five minutes of cooking.

Buy local, buy in season, and cook it the day you buy it. That’s the whole secret.

The second move is creaming. This sounds fancier than it is. Slice the kernels off, then use the back of your knife to scrape the cob — press firmly and drag down to push out the milky pulp left behind. That liquid is starchy and sweet. Add it to the pan with the kernels, a little butter, salt and a splash of water, and cook gently for eight to ten minutes, stirring now and then. What you get is closer to a soft polenta than a vegetable side — substantial, golden, good under eggs or alongside a piece of simply cooked fish.

The third is the simplest: raw. Very fresh sweetcorn, sliced straight from the cob, needs nothing but good olive oil, flaky salt, and something acidic — a squeeze of lime, a few drops of sherry vinegar. Shave it over a tomato salad. Eat it while you're cooking everything else.

None of this is complicated, and all of it depends on the corn being genuinely fresh. Sweetcorn starts converting its sugars to starch from the moment it's picked, so the difference between corn bought at a farm shop that morning and corn that's travelled four days in a chilled lorry is real and noticeable. Buy local, buy in season — roughly July through September in the UK — and cook it the day you buy it. That's the whole secret.

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